Mid Level Eye

The Mid Level Eye

The jocular eye

The Jocular Eye

Several types have a hard time wearing kohl for a variety of reasons. If you have “centered” eyes or “jocular” eyes you will likely look as if you are squinting all the time if you rim your eyes in black. It’s an optical illusion, of course, but that is what makeup is all about. If the optical illusion makeup creates is not flattering, you have to find a way around it, right?

Another group which sometimes has a hard time wearing black kohl are light eyed people. They just end up looking hard and you don’t want to look like a barfly. There is hope, though, and it is something that you already have, won’t cost you any more money, and is so much fun that I do it just to mix up my look.

Dig out your old eyeshadow collection, you know the one that you bought from Sephora last Xmas and really don’t use any more. Get our your kohl stick and start experimenting. I twirled my kohl stick in a nice purple-brown color and applied it just like I normally do with black and it was smashing! It was the same color as my natural waterline but a shade or two darker, so I got the rimmed effect but with a subtle and attractive hue!

Muzzy, dark purples, just about any brown work wonderfully. Grey can be glorious. Those are the more “comfortable” colors to wear as waterline eyeliner, they enhance the natural shadows around your eyes and really bring them out to an attractive and (dare I say it) natural way. It creates just a nice little push to showcase your eyes, and that is often as much as you need when more is just too much.

Of course, you may or may not have to touch up your waterline after a couple of hours. The shadows don’t seem to have the UBER staining power of mega-kohl (like the Mosha Katani kohl which may be eternal <3)*.

Of course, other colors are exquisite for special effects! Green can enhance the color of your iris and in the right conditions, red is amazing…the Japanese use red eyeliner for a look of beautiful lamentation. If you are feeling a bit adventurous, try it. It can be spooky and goth but that is the intersection of Eros and Thanatos.

One I tend to stay away from is yellow. Makes you look jaundiced and if you have ever seen jaundice for real you don't ever want to look that way. Trust me.

Also, please do a "patch test" on your eye before you go entirely line happy. Take your kohl stick, twirl it in your powder and just touch the outer corner of your waterline. Wait 24 hrs to see if you get any reaction. You don't want your lovely eyes to be irritated and there are millions of other colors out there to try that won't harm you. Play it safe.

Once you have found your alternate palette, it's time to make it portable. Like I said, these might not last like the classic kohl and so you are going to have to make sure you can retouch during your day. I gently dug out a couple of pressed powder shadows and put them in little plastic cases which would hold the kohl stick, then popped that into my purse. Retouch was easy and quick during the day, and I was even able to find a small lightweight 10x mirror to help me at Bed, Bath, and Beyond for about $10.

One other wonderful source of eyeshadow kohl is the loose pigment eyeshadows which are so popular nowadays. In the past all shadow was pressed, in the early 2000's independent eyeshadow makers started selling their product loose in little pots. Those are excellent for waterline eyeliner, simple to put in your purse and carry around, and easy to catch on the end of a kohl stick for lining. You probably have a few that you thought were a bit too dark for your eyelids, try them as waterline eyeliner and that might be a whole different animal! Don't forget to do the "patch test" on them before you use them as waterline eyeliner, though. I have only found one eyeshadow to be irritating to my eyelids in my life, and that was long ago (I suspect that it had a sulfa based preservative in it which I don't think they use any more). But play it safe!

So, there it is–the key to perfect enlightenment in waterline eyelining! All you have to do is practice, experiment and have a ball.

While you are at it, drop by my website at Possets Perfume and take a look around. My inspiration for these kohl essays is Ancient Egypt and Possets is celebrating the Egyptian Evenings Collection of gorgeous deep resinous fragrances for summer. The ancients knew something about heat and spice, and I am exploring the intense beauty of that tradition at www.possets.com come and play!

*Mosha Katani also makes a navy and a brown kohl which you really should explore if you are a woman who looks good in other-than-black kohl. Mosha Katani kohl is VERY rich colors, though, and if you are going for subtle proceed with caution. You will know how to play it after you experiment, though. To see a complete listing of all the waterline eyeliner I have investigated, here is a link back to the original blog where I offer my Excel spreadsheet download of waterline eyeliner makers, their websites, prices, and how they all stacked up.

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